Saturday, April 30, 2011

Conchs, Quilts & the Abacos

Conchs- the Rite of Passage

 Like sailors of old wearing a gold earring as a statement of rounding one of the world's Southern Horns, blowing a conch horn at sunset is declaring to the world (at least those that can hear you,) that you have Crossed the Gulf Stream.  Since David, Me & Alice Mae are true champions of the crossing, I was bound and determined to make my own conch horn and learn how to blow it.  Easier said than done.

   Getting a conch in these Bahamian waters is easy.  There are literally mounds of them.  But these conch shells all have holes punch into them in order to get the conch meat- I needed a no-hole shell.  The solution was to purchase a solid shell. 




   
      With my conch shell on board, we proceeded to hacksaw the tip in order to make a blow hole.  Here's where the tricky part comes in....
I thought you are supposed to count 3 rings in and then cut.  So we did.  For a sweaty, hard hour we sawed away.  (the hack saw was old, rusted and dull, the conch shell was shiny, new, and VERY solid.)   Then we realized, maybe it should have been  4 rings in before we cut. Damn.  So, more sweating more groaning, more cutting. 





 But success finally came.  (I think I needed a second drink to finish)  Getting a clean sound from a conch is a learned talent.  At least, I have to learn and I am not very talented.   So, here are my learning pictures.  Try to invision a bloated frog being slowly flattened- that's my first sounds.  But I'm getting better.  The frogs are getting smaller and quieter.  I can eventually hit the clean sound, but by the time I manage, I'm out of breath.  Like I said, I'm not too talented.

Quilting

While we were in Eleuthera, we spent some time in Spanish Wells.  A clean, tidy town with colorful concrete houses packed tightly up & down both sides of this narrow, rocky spot of land.  This is a strong fishing community of blond-haired Bahamians.  Their unique accent sounds almost Irish.   

While in this quaint village I met a wonderful older lady, Oliviad, an island quilter, born & raised on Spanish Wells. All 3 children are married and living right in Spanish Wells.  Amazing!  Oliviad invited me into her home to show me her work.  She said "It's just me & my sister now that quilt.  The other women are too old and no young people want to learn the craft".  She looked at me and said "It'll die out after we're gone." 
Waterways &Wildflowers - Winter 2010
So, just to prove her wrong, I am sending you some current pictures of my latest quilt.  I am also including a picture of the boat quilt I made last year.  Hand quilting is still alive and stitching aboard the Alice Mae.


using a template to mark my pattern on this latest quilt


Crossing to the Abacos
Tuesday, April 19
Eleuthera to the Abacos

8:25 
 Finally! dropped our mooring line, skimmed by Ridley Head Point, through the coral channel (thank you Alice Mae for your shallow draft!) and out into the wild blue of the Atlantic.  Hope we have fair winds and following seas. We have a 45 mi. crossing to do.  My stomach is in a knot.

11:00 
  32 mi to go to the waypoint for Little Harbour- the southernmost entry into the Abacos.  The day is beautiful.  We're motor-sailing, doing 6.6kts.  That's REALLY good for Alice Mae.  My stomach feels better.

Here are some pictures of Little Harbour and the "famous" Pete's Pub  and Art Gallery.  Pete advertises as being in the heart of downtown Little Harbour.  That's good since Pete's Pub is Little Harbour. 


not sure if that's David or the dock that is crooked.


  David paying up at the beach bar


walkway to the windward side
And just in case I haven't mentioned it before...............these Bahamian waters are truly clear and beautiful.  I found this starfish in the shallows where we were anchored.   Life is good.


Sunday, April 10, 2011

Crossing to the Bahamas

The Gulf Crossing
Wed. March 24,
Boot Key Harbour
   5 weeks in the Fl. Keys isn't exactly a form of cruel & unusual punishment, but when the weather window finally came, we were hoisting sails and heading to the Bahamas.  We decided to work a long diagonal run of 129 miles through the Gulf Stream to our target of Bimini, the most western islands in the Bahamas.

Journal entry March 24
4:30 Sailing (moto sailing) at 85 dgs. trying to angle into the gulf stream. You have to work with the stream, it has it's own current of about 2 knots and can generate it's own wave action.  We're with a loose group of 7-8 boats.  Poor little AliceMae is probably the smallest and the slowest;  The day is calm, sunny & perfect for this big crossing.









7:00 getting into the gulf stream. doing 7.2 knots!
9:00 lots of stars
10:00 dark. lots of stars
11:00 still dark!
12:00 midnight on the gulf stream
12:15 moon rise.  A huge red blob on the horizen. Thought it was a cruise ship. Warned our travel buddies to watch their course headings.  Didn't want to run into that big thing.  Felt pretty foolish when the cruise ship rose slowly into the night sky.  Our moon.
3:00 following the lights of our buddy boat, Creola.

sunrise in the Gulf Stream
7:00 sailing wing to wing. skies lightening up. 9:15 Almost there.  Can see a tree-lined island on the horizen.
10:15 tied up at Alice Town, Bimini.











Our lunch spot
 Bimini: a skinny little strip of land with the Kings Hwy. on the east and Queens Hwy. on the west.  Both are narrow, one-lane roads about 400 ft. between.  Alice Town has easy customs.  Golf carts the most popular mode of transport.
Bought coconut bread, coconut rum and a
Bimini T-shirt.  Life is good.

Crossing the Great Bahama Bank
    The 2nd leg of this crossing is a 70 mile stretch of white sand shallows that funnel down into a narrow N.W. Channel cut through the bank.  Then another more 20 miles to the first islands, Chub Cay, in the  Berry chain.  Too far to sail in a day, but the Banks are big and empty so the usual procedure is......
 - get a 24 hr. calm weather window
  - sail all day
   - drop anchor in the middle of no-where (just stay well off the shipping lanes!)
    - try to sleep in the rolling waves 
     - get up at dawn
      - make coffee
        - head east again.

Sunset on the Bahama Banks
The Berry Island Chain
   These small islands form a cresent of white sand and scrub islands that border the eastern side of the Great Bahama Bank.  Total population of 760.  The main town, Bullocks Harbour, has a downtown that consists of 2 buildings, one the police station and next door, the all-in-one grocery/restaurant/bar.  But they do have beautiful white sand beaches and friendly people.

Sunday, March 27 Berry Islands

Marinas - Bahama style


our shower house- basic but clean
 Berry Island Club Marina
Sunday, a day of rest. We've been traveling hard since Wed. when we left Marathon. The overnight crossing was exciting.  Bimini was friendly. The Great Bahama Bank was VERY large and flat.  Anchoring in the middle of the bank was a unique experience. Realizing our chart plotter card didn't have "Bahamas" was an extreme bummer.  Snagging a mooring ball at Frazier Cay, a welcome relief.  Enjoying the sunshine and clear, clear waters makes the last four days seem well worth the efforts.
Al.ice Mae is in the Bahamas Mon!



conch shells by the pier

The northern end of the chain, Bullocks Harbour.

      
Bullocks Harbour Marina- 2 adult manatees came for their morning drink of fresh water. Such docile  creatures.  They would drink from the hose, sucking on it like a bottle.  The female had 2 new boat-propeller gashes on her back.

Monday, April 5
Little Harbour Cay,
Flo's Conch Bar & Moorings
   We're tucked behind a groupings of small islands, protected on all sides and just waiting for this storm to come rolling in.  Already we have more cloud cover and strong winds out of the South. Gusts of about 20 and whitecapping in our little cove.

Flo's Conch Bar  -  check out the "You Welcome" on the roof
  Flo's is obviously a laid back place. No one there yesterday but the chickens and the very vocal roosters.  One crows so much he's hoarse.  Must be some very satisfied chickens.  Chester (the one-man-do-it-all-owner) has loud speakers broadcasting VHFch.68 24/7. We can sit back and keep up with all the news and gossip from the boaters.  David tried to order bread.  Chester said "he might be baking tomorrow".  Guess I still need to get used to island time.  Imagine I'll be doing without bread.  Oh dear!


Sunday, Apr. 10 (I think:)
We left our Berry Islands, sailing southerly winds the 30 miles to Nassau.  A couple days of re-provisioning and we were ready to get away from the big city.  We're presently in Spanish Wells, north of Eleuthera.  A pretty, clean town of well-maintained homes. We rented a golf cart and perused the island yesterday.  Tomorrow, onward to new frontiers. 
  Next big run.....Abacos!